In Montreal - wet and exhilarated! (Mr. Frei)

A feast in Montreal for Brian and Mr. Frei

Greetings, gentle reader,

We have arrived in Montreal wet and exhilarated after a 31 mile downwind run from last night's Quasi-emergency bail-out point at St. Placide. This afternoon we ran into quite a squall and were intercepted by the Canadian coast guard (three young guys in a high powered orange boat) who simply wanted to confirm that we were not in distress. They hinted that in 30 knot winds and high waves, it would be prudent to wear life jackets. Then they bid us a good day and drove off into the rain. Good guys. Our sense is that they have seen more inexplicable sights than us.

So....we are at the top of the Lachine canal and will row through Montreal tomorrow morning. The row through Ottawa was as if we were strolling through the park with the joggers, bikers, and roller-bladers, and transiting Montreal may well be the same. I hope so; one could not hope for a more relaxing way to see a city than by Adirondack guide boat.

We're holding up well. Yesterday (Tuesday) was especially tough with the wind on the nose all day, so today's change of wind was welcomed and appreciated. Last night Brian rolled out of his boat onto a pitching dock as if he was taking the ball in off tackle from the two.  I signaled "touchdown" to an amused couple on the dock. We were tired.

Tomorrow we should be in the St Lawrence, enjoying a strong current and dodging the ocean-going ships that ply those waters. We'll hug the shore and use our wits and wiles to make good time safely.

I am in Brian's debt for being able to use his Internet machine...as well as for his wonderful contributions to the blog. And, truth be told, he brings a kind of refinement to the journey that I might not have been inclined to seek were I alone. As I write this, we dine at la strada, a white table cloth italian restaurant across from the park. We can see out tent homes across the street. 

I'll be in mine soon, wet and satisfied with a good day, with garlic on my breath.

Mo Latah.

Thanks for moving the pledge paddles. They are moving, right???

Big ups,

Mr Frei

Day 9 - Saint-Placide, QC to Montreal, QC

Lock 1 on the Lachine Canal

For those of you who guessed Wednesday in the poll, pat yourselves on the back, as Brian and Mr. Frei have made it to the first lock on the Lachine Canal in southwest Montreal.  They are camping in a park by the lock, and will be ready to go at 9 AM when the lock opens tomorrow.


They were on the St. Lawrence for a while today and said that it was a roaring current. In fact, they were stopped by the Canadian Coast Guard, who wanted to make sure that they were okay. Brian (Felix) was wearing a life jacket and Mr. Frei (Oscar) wasn't!  Where the Ottawa River hit the St. Lawrence the water was "confused" as Mr. Frei put it, but it added some excitement to the row.


Tomorrow they will do the rest of the canal, and be on the St. Lawrence again, with the expectation of reaching the Richelieu Canal on Saturday.


Brian was given the access code for the wifi, so hopefully he will write a blog tonight!


Lachine Canal Information from Wikipedia

The Lachine Canal (Canal de Lachine in French) is a canal passing through the southwestern part of the Island of Montreal, Quebec, Canada, running 14.5 kilometres from the Old Port of Montreal to Lake Saint-Louis, through the boroughs of Lachine, Lasalle and Sud-Ouest.

The canal gets its name from the French word for China (La Chine). The European explorers dreamt of finding a route from New France to the Western Sea and there on to China and hence auspiciously the region where the canal was built was named Lachine.

The canal is situated on land originally granted by the King of France to the Sulpician Order. Beginning in 1689, attempts were made by the French Colonial government and several other groups to build a canal that would allow ships to bypass the treacherous Lachine Rapids. After more than 130 years of failure, a consortium that included the young Scottish immigrant John Redpath was successful. John Richardson was Chairman of the Committee of Management of the canal project and its chief engineer was Thomas Brunett. The contractors were Thomas McKay and John Redpath, plus the firms ofThomas Phillips & Andrew White and Abner Bagg & Oliver Wait.

Since 1848, the canal has had 5 locks: Lachine, Côte-Saint-Paul, Saint-Gabriel and 2 locks at Old Port of Montreal. But initially it had seven locks:

• Lachine (1 lock),
• Côte-Saint-Paul (2 lock in 1825, 1 since 1848)
• Saint-Gabriel (1 lock)
• Old Port of Montreal (3 locks in 1825, 2 since 1848).

The lovely Lachine Canal in Montreal

Day 8 - Hawkesbury, ON to Saint-Placide, Quebec

Saint-Placide, QC

It sounds as though today was a tough row, as they did the entire 20 miles into a stiff headwind.  They are camped in a public park in front of a beautiful white church (Saint-François d'Assise).


Saint-Placide is a municipality in the Laurentides region of Quebec, Canada, part of the Deux-Montagnes Regional County Municipality, along the north shore of the Ottawa River.


It seems as though the highlight of Mr. Frei's day was during breakfast at a diner. He was served a beautiful, golden brown sausage, and he noticed that it was the same color as the back of his hand.


More to report tomorrow!


Kathy

Photo:

                                                                Photo:Louis-Philippe Rousselle-Brosseau

Noon on Day 8

Al was at the first of the Ottawa locks (Carillon) waiting for Brian - he said that it is very industrial looking. They'd rowed 10 miles against a stiff headwind by noon. Mr. Frei was joined by a party of 15 kayakers for part of the row. 

The Carillon Canal, opened in 1833, bypasses the rapids of the Ottawa River, especially those at Long Sault. Originally built for military purposes, the canal was used for commerce from the outset.

Its location on the Ottawa River places it within the Montreal-Ottawa-Kingston inland shipping route. The present-day canal is used almost exclusively for pleasure boating, includes only one lock, which raises and lowers boats 20 m in a single operation.

Carillon Lock

Doesn't this make you want to pledge?

Here is a photo we received via iPhone of Mr. Frei and one of the friendly dogs he encountered along the Ottawa River.  If you haven't pledged to Boys' Latin or Loomis Chaffee, wouldn't this be a great time to do so?  The pledge paddles are on the right, and just double-click on the school of your choice to be whisked away to their donation page!  All of the money goes straight to the scholarship fund at either school.

The majority of people think that Brian and Mr. Frei will arrive in Montreal on Thursday.  Keep watching to see if you are correct!

Day 7 - Rockland, ON to Hawkesbury, ON

Hawkesbury, Ontario

Today was a 38 miler under relentless sunshine. They had lunch on the Quebec side of the river at the famous Fairmont Chateau Montebello, an enormous log structure made of red cedar (a few photos of it below).

They are staying at a public marina tonight on an island at Hawkesbury, Ontario. Hawkesbury is touted as the third most bilingual town in Ontario, with about 70% of its inhabitants being fluent in English and French, the two official languages of Canada. (West Nipissing is first with 73.4% followed by Hearst at 71%.) 89% of the population is made up of French speaking Franco-Ontarians.

Arrow points to island where they are staying

They are more than halfway from Ottawa to the St. Lawrence!

More tomorrow!

Fairmont Montebello, Quebec

Fairmont Montebello, Conference Hall

Lunch at Montebello on the Ottawa River (Brian)

Al at Montebello

June 27, Montebello, Quebec

We are having lunch at what is billed as the world's largest log cabin. It's big. This is the same place that Al pointed to on the map just yesterday and said, "we're not going there."

We went through the eight locks of Ottawa yesterday, like descending a grand staircase between the parliament and a cathedral down to the Ottawa River. We stopped on the other side, the French side, for sandwiches at Le Petit Episserie where they know what they're doing.

From there it was a long slog in the sun and I hit the wall at about 20 miles, with 10 still to go. Wasn't sure I would make it. We rowed nearly to sundown when Moe, the manager of a marina at Rockland allowed us to camp for the night. While others told us to keep going, Moe gave us a spot on the grass, showers, and a kitchen to warm up our Dinty Moore beef stew. Good, but a little heavy on the salt, Dinty.

The Ottawa River is broad and muddy, running through a wide flat Allen of farm land and low hills. Some of the farms come right down to the water. But there are few towns. Just mile after mile of rocky shoreline or swamp and rush grasses. We can hear many birds, but see few of them.

It's 2:10, and we have 18 miles to go. Al says were dawdling.

Day 6 - Black Rapids, ON to Rockland, ON

Rockand, Ontario

'

Mr. Frei and Brian did an amazing 33 miles today! There was no waiting at the series of locks in Ottawa, so they made it through all of them in 1 hour. Only two other boats were waiting.

Mr. Frei said that Ottawa was beautiful, but they did not stop at all. They entered the Ottawa River and continued 23 miles to a nice private marina in Rockland. Rockland is a bilingual community located about 40 kilometers (25 miles) east of downtown Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, part of the city of Clarence–Rockland. Rockland has a population of 9,210, The surroundings are very picturesque, but there are no restaurants near the marina, so they will be relying on their own provisions for dinner.

The plan for tomorrow is to row 38 miles to Hawkesbury.  

It sounded like a nice but uneventful day!

Kathy

Mr. Frei and Brian completed the entire Rideau Canal!

Day 5 - Burritt's Rapids, ON to Black Rapids, ON

Brian and Mr. Frei did 31 miles today!  They arrived this evening in Black Rapids and were last seen looking for food.  Tim Horton's was out as an option because it was too far from the boats. 

Although they are now only 9 miles from the Ottawa River, word on the Rideau is that it will take about 6 hours, as there are many locks.

The Swan restaurant in Manotick had a bad review from Brian (Felix), but Mr. Frei (Oscar) really liked it.  I heard that his boeuf au jus was delicious.

They saw many McMansions along the Rideau this afternoon, and one was rumored to belong to Dan Ackroyd.

The weather seems to be changing, so they are hoping for fairer weather tomorrow as they enter Ottawa.

More tomorrow!

Kathy

Many locks in Ottawa

17 miles in at 12:30 on Day 5 (Brian)

June 25, Manotick, Ont.



We rowed 17 miles by 12:30. Aiming for 30 by nightfall. Rowed in several patches of steady rain. Bad British lunch at The Swan; don't go there.

Now in the waters of big pleasure boats and beer drinkers. Hoping for Ottawa tomorrow.

Difficult to find wireless signals. Will update as possible.

A message between songs from Lock 17 (Mr. Frei)

Greetings, gentle reader,

I am briefly in possession of Brian’s writing device, so this will be short. I know others have accounted for our miles and stopovers and weather and such. Let me simply say that having Brian along on this trip has put in relief both the joy of adventuring and the specialty of friendship. He sees a loon and says, "Al, look at that loon," and by god, there is a loon.

My point is simply that sharing this experience enriches it and allows for savoring detail in ways that a solo expedition precludes. We are accommodating each other's quirks and foibles with ease and consideration except when he does one or two things that are best left unmentioned.

I must thank those of you who have pledged but have yet to see your contributions registered on the pledge paddle; we'll correct that oversight in the coming days, and you can expect a natty thank-you note when we arrive home. But in brief, thank you!

Gotta go....tonight is karaoke night at the lock 17 bistro, and I only know Motown. Not much call for that in these parts, dontcha' know.


Big ups, pulling for home!


Mr. Frei

Oscar and Felix on Water (Brian)

 
June 24, Burritt’s Rapids, Ont. --- We went to sleep last night under a violent thunder and lightning storm. The wind was lifting our tents and we thought we might get microwaved. But we woke up alive to pack up wet tents.

This Oscar and Felix thing is coming into clearer definition. In the day Al leads the row. At night I lead the hunt for food.

My friend Albert keeps a special Gatorade bottle his boat that does not contain Gatorade, although in a moment of fatigue you could mistake it for that. Not only does he have that in the boat, but he stores it there until it's full.

I prefer to pull to shore and do my communing with nature's foliage. Call me fussy, but I'm just not going to risk having a chemical spill in my boat and having to row with it.

Al stores his boat right side up at night, with stuff still in it. He bails it out in the morning. I turn my boat over and take all the gear in my tent.

Al for the most part does not get blisters on his hands. Maybe one or two. I have twenty.

Albert is driven to row, and I am not. I stop for pain and to take pictures. He rows on and he would row into the dark if I was not with him. One night we reached a town that might have a restaurant. It was 7pm, raining, and we had rowed for five hours in the rain. Al said, "should we keep going?” I have blisters from trying keep up.

I nibble on nuts in the boat, but Al doesn't care for them. He eats some kind of energy food he calls "globules" and he feeds me boat to boat. Today an orange globule stuck to my arm.

Yesterday morning it started to pour at 6am, just when we should have been getting up. We each knew the other was awake but said nothing until Al called over to my tent, "what do you think?"

I was thinking I wanted a down comforter.

We thought we would row all day in rain, but we pressed on into an overcast day without rain. Loons called out all day, and popped up next to our boats, trilling. We rowed 20 miles on open lakes. We saw pairs of loons every mile or so, mergansers, redwing blackbirds ... Lots of birds we are not good at identifying.

Later Al told me if I had decided not to row in the rain he would have supported me. He didn't want to get out of bed either.



Day 4 - Smiths Falls, Ontario to Burritts Rapids, Ontario



 Burritt;s Falls - Pop. 82. In the United Cs. of Leeds & Grenville in the Reg. of Ottawa-Carleton, mostly on an island in the Rideau R., 22 km NE of Smiths Falls. Brothers Stephen and Daniel Burritt settled in 1793.

Day 4's journey took the two intrepid rowers from Smiths Falls to Burritt's Rapids, which is a trip of about 20 miles and includes 12 locks.  They are camping by lock 17, but have found a great crowded bar by the lock, where they were able to shower, drink, eat, do their laundry and hopefully compose a blog entry.

Brian hit his first buoy today (Red 444). As Mr. Frei said, "It had to happen sooner or later, but at least there was no damage to his boat."   There was rain off and on again all day, but at least there were no bad thunderstorms like the one that hit the area last night.

Tomorrow's journey will be the Long Reach, which is 25 miles with no locks ( see map below), and they should be in Ottawa late on Sunday.

More later!

Kathy

 





Planned row for June 25th in red



This just in!



Mr. Frei and Brian pass through Kingston Mills locks


Brian's sister Martha sent this photo today. It is Mr. Frei and Brian passing through the Kingston locks on June 21st. Martha's former boss was on a cycling trip there, and just happened to spot them.   Note that Al is in his friendly, but "keep rowing" mode, and Brian...well, not sure what he is doing (maybe taping sore hands?).

Looking forward to tonight's update!

Kathy



Looks like they may have been at lock #46 when the photo was taken



Day 3 - Newboro, Ontario to Smiths Falls, Ontario

The non-bio brothers made it 27 miles today, and are now 60 miles from Ottawa!  They set out at 8 AM this morning in a light drizzle, but the sun managed to come through from time to time during the day. They rowed across the largest lake in the Rideau system, which is reported to be absolutely beautiful.

They actually saw three other boats today, including a Jersey Skiff like the one that Mr. Frei used to own.  They went through one of the locks with a tour boat, and managed to converse with the tourists a little. 

Al spotted a Chinese "all you can eat" buffet in Smiths Falls, but was told no way, so they were off to look for another restaurant when we last heard.  Poor Mr. Frei!

They are through with the open water now, and will be on the Rideau River the rest of the way to Ottawa.

Enjoy some photos of the Smiths Falls area.

Kathy

Garden by the Rideau Canal

Late Day on the Rideau

Don and James work the lock

Paddling the rideau

You Bug Me (Brian)

Giant Mosquito



Newboro, Ont -- Twenty-four miles today seven hours and17 minutes actual oar time, but who's counting. Everthing hurts and the hands are hamburger. Mosquitoes are the size of hummingbirds and they aggressively knock on the doors to our tents.

We have wound our way through narrow rivers and chains of lakes. Much of the shoreline is unspoiled, but there are occasional clusters of lakeside homes. We have seen few people on the water.

We have plenty of Loons trilling, families of ducks and 18 inch fish jumping.

Tonight we convinced them to reopen the kitchen at the Stirling Lodge in Newboro and feed us fresh turkey sandwiches. Al and I had our morning coffee in Lower Brewers. and all is good. Al says any doubts he had about having me along were dispelled when I served the coffee.

We camped on the lawn by the Lower Brewers Lock after a twelve and a half mile row Tuesday. The lock keepers buildings are well kept colonials with green trim. The locks themselves are mechanically operated by the tenders turning big iron wheels ... No motors. The stone work and much of the hand operated mechanicals are 200 years old. The Rideau Canal originally was built to defend Canada against attack by the US.

We drove here Tuesday on a perfect day through the Adirondacks. Warrensburg, BlueMountain, Indian Lake, Long Lake,Tupperware. We got a glimpse of the Thousand Islands on the St. Lawrence,where the water is tropical clear.

Our put in was at a little park on a suburban cul de sac in Kingston, and we started putting water behind us. Al is our navigator with maps and GPS. At five miles he shouted "five percent, one percent !"

He' still be rowing if I didn't make him stop and pitch a tent.

Rideau Lock

Day 2 - Washburn, Ontario to Newboro, Ontario

Brian and Mr. Frei had a 24 mile day today, and are now at the summit of the Rideau Canal in Newboro, Ontario.  They have walked into the town looking for a good meal and some fresh provisions.

Mr. Frei described the scenery as looking very much like the narrows at Lake George, without the mountains. There are a lot of islands and charming cottages along the way, as well as many loons.  Apparently, one loon startled Mr. Frei by "barking" alongside his boat.  They only passed two other boats today, so it has been very peaceful.  They went through 10 - 12 locks (one set of 4) and some doubles.

They dined at lunch at the Kenney Hotel. Hopefully, they washed up in the mens' lounge beforehand!  A light rain was with them most of the day, but as they were going to dinner, the rain had stopped.

Tomorrow there will be a long stretch of the canal with no locks, so the total mileage tomorrow may exceed today's.

Brian has written a blog entry, which he will send in as soon as he reaches a place where he can do that.

Total mileage is 36!

Keep watching!

Kathy




Hotel Kenney Ontario



Day 1 - Kingston, Ontario to Washburn, Ontario

Hello everyone,  Mr. Frei and Brian are safely ensconced at a campground by Lock #45 on the Rideau Canal.  The drive from Lake George took longer than expected, so they were not able to start rowing until 1PM, but managed to do 12.5 miles, which is certainly a  respectable first day warmup! 

Matt Freihofer was an enormous help fitting the boats onto the trailer, and driving the long distance from Lake George to Kingston, Ontario and back in one day.

The locks are all hand-operated, the lock keepers are quite friendly and the scenery is beautiful.  They actually made it through 5 locks today, and will try to position themselves tomorrow to be able to make it as far as possible before they close for the day. The locks are open 8:30 AM until 7:30 PM.

The photo below is one of Brian having a delightful dinner of beef stew!  This is the first row with an actual stove (thanks to Brian).

                                                               

Doug Livingston took some great photos of the boats being loaded onto the trailer, which I will post later.

Sweet dreams to Mr. Frei and Brian. and more news tomorrow.

Kathy

It’s The Day Before We Leave (Mr. Frei)



Last training meal






Greetings, Gentle Reader,


It’s The Day Before We Leave; at 0500 hrs we will depart Cleverdale and head to Kingston, Ontario, courtesy of son Matthew and his Toyota Tundra and Trailer. We should be on the water by noon and with any luck and the cooperation of the lock-keepers, we hope to put twenty miles under the keels before nightfall. Tomorrow will be a BIG learning day. How will our bodies respond to our first serious effort beyond lifting groaning forks to our faces? How will the boats perform with the luggage we carry? How will the lock-keepers respond to our appeals for expeditious passage? How will our mutual blather affect our relationship as fellow travelers? Frankly, I expect to be grinning from ear to ear tomorrow night; this has already been a lot of fun.

You see, Brian and I conducted our final provisioning (a.k.a shopping) today at Wal-Mart, a sad testament to our sense of urgency and conservative budgeting. Then…a quick lunch of cheeseburgers and onion rings, a light fresh coat of varnish on the woodwork of the boats, the construction of six cushions from Hefty bags and duct tape, Brian’s masterful fitting of new seats, a trial loading of it all for weight and balance…and, voila! Good to go! The weather is perfect as I write this on my mom’s porch at Lake George, but atmospheric confusion to the west promises more than a few days of rain for our start. Brian optimistically observes that cold, rain, and enormous personal discomfort will give us more to write about. If this be so, he’s picked the right expedition.

And oh, yes. My next book is “Loyalty…the Vexing Virtue” by Eric Felten, chosen not only because “virtue” seems to me, even in advance of reading the book, to be a quality that has been greatly misconstrued, abused, and too narrowly interpreted in the contemporary culture, but my own notion of “Loyalty” may be tested over the next few weeks. After all, is this trip about rowing 503 miles? Is it about savoring time and shared experience with my non-bio brother? Is it about achieving a personal best of sorts? Is it about the communion of writing a blog and co-mingling friends from different zip codes? It’s about all of these things and more, of course, and yet the loyalties I hold for these aspirations and the people involved may become conflicted or casualties of experience. Perhaps Felten’s book can help me navigate through some of it. Perhaps?

So we’re on the water tomorrow, Gentle Reader, and since Brian is bringing his iPad, we may be able to sustain some commentary as we row. We’ll be calling in to Peg and Kathy as in the past, so you will receive frequent updates of our progress.

Row Canada!!

Mo’ Latah’

And….many, many thanks for the Pledge Activity!! More thanks to come, honest!

Mr. Frei



Technology and Water Sometimes Mix (Brian)



Brian's Guide Boat

  We spent Saturday night working out at the Freihofer training table in Cleverdale on Lake George. Al’s mother made pork chops, creamed potatoes, green beans and coleslaw, finished with apple pie and ice cream. If we weren’t in shape before, we are now.

Doug and Susie Livingston came over from a few doors away. Doug must have heard laughter and the sound of ice clinking in glasses. Doug always answers the call of the wild cocktail hour.

I spent Sunday marshaling gear, cleaning my boat, and sweeping spiders out of my bedroom at Lake George.

Al’s mother offered to give him an Amazon Kindle e-reader for the trip, which I would have counseled her against doing if she had checked with me first. A Kindle is one of the devices that Al derisively refers to as “one of the screens”, merely an electronic diversion. Al has packed two of the devices quaintly referred to as “books” which should last him the duration of the trip without recharging.

This trip promises to be a bit like “Zen and the At of Motorcycle Maintenance”, in which two men crossed America on motorcycles debating about whether to follow the directions of life as written in the manual, or make it up as you go along. Al and I each have a little of both.

He yearns, as sometimes we all do, for simplicity. The simplicity of the Adirondack guideboat is something he can appreciate, and actually use. It was designed to be rowed by the hunting guide with a New York City swell sitting in the rear in a position in which the two could actually talk facing each other. They were plugged in, in a 19th century way.

The original boats had a technological genius of their own. Made to be stable and faster as they were loaded, their ribs were cut from spruce crooks, the part of the tree where the trunk splays out underground into the roots. Now the wood boats are made with shaped laminated ribs and a skin of fiberglass over the clear cedar planking. Or, like Al’s, they are made of Kevlar, which if you put enough of it together you’ve got a bulletproof vest.

That’s Al’s kind of technology. He has a love hate relationship with electronics. He uses a computer and an iPhone, but he’s not glued to them. He checks his Email maybe once or twice a week. A lot of times you have a better chance of reaching him through the US Postal Service that you do with the latest in communication technology. He’s holding out for a world in which people talk to each other face to face rather than texting or some other form of “exting” as has recently been practiced in Congress. I’ve sent him several texts telling him this is hopeless.

He does, however, have a point. A common emergency room injury these days is the bump on the head suffered while texting and walking into a phone pole. People have walked into shopping mall fountains while focusing on their Blackberry. We have all seen the groups of people in restaurants, or teenagers at the mall, together but separate as their attention is focused on their electronic tethers. No matter who they are with, they aren’t there.

Al insisted that I read David Carr’s book “The Shallows”, about how electronics and the distractions of Email, Facebook and Twitter are shattering human concentration. It turns out we were not made to multitask and we are fooling ourselves if we think we can. What Al calls “the screens” may even be causing the brain to rewire and work in a different way, just as the brain can rewire after a traumatic injury. At Al’s suggestion I sat down and bought a copy of “The Shallows” immediately and read it on my iPad.

Brian's gear

Getting There! (Mr. Frei)

Greetings, Gentle Reader,


The Mini is packed here in Baltimore, Brian will soon be in the air from LA, and in hearing this you have learned of essentially the only element of this adventure that is - or can be- set to the clock or calendar. Son Matt will reliably convey us across the border on Monday, and after that it’s catch as catch can; the watches will come off as our attention will shift to hands, hearts, backs, and derrieres (each our own, of course).

Packing a Mini for journey in a Guide Boat is good practice in decision-making; Brian has sent two pallets on ahead to my mom’s house, so I’m anxious to see what cargo awaits. I know he’s planning to bring a stove to heat water for morning Starbuck’s Vias (and he’ll hear no derision from me on that score), but my suspicion is that he’s a bit of a gadget man and all contingencies will be covered. Brian is a strong rower; he’ll pull what he wants. Was it the pro-gun Jesse Helms who once said, “I have more guns than I need…but not as many guns as I want.”? It’s the same with gadgets in the boat.

So I’ll be in the car heading north in a matter of a few minutes….but before I leave, I must sing my heart’s song to the unsung hero of MY trip: Peg. Peg, thank you for enabling me to depart for three weeks with a light heart and only a modicum of guilt. I spend too much time at school, too much time grading papers on “our” time, and in anticipating this trip I have not pulled my weight lately. I love you for a host of reasons, but at this moment I’ll add that I love you for your generosity with the one finite resource that we most want to share: time. I love you.

All of my literary references are packed in the car, but in addressing the latent competition inherent in a team row, Brian has written that he may be “the first to a meal…the first to a shower…”. I can assure you, Gentle Reader, that we will contest for the food with vigor, but I’ve traveled with Brian and believe me when I tell you that he will be the first to the shower.

I wouldn’t have it any other way.

On the water on Tuesday. Mo’ Latah’.

Mr. Frei

Is Anybody Reading This? (Brian)

You get some funny reactions when you announce a trip like this. People assume that at some point you should give up great physical challenges. It’s like when I went helicopter skiing in Alaska. Looking at the gray hair leaking out from the margins of my helmet, some of the hotshots in their 20s and 30s said to me, “It’s great that you’re out here.”

Tell them what we’re doing and people say, “Really?”, as if we are facing some great danger. We will carry life jackets and sunscreens. And after all, we’re rowing across Canada, where even the mosquitoes are polite.

The question has arisen as to whether there is a competition going on here. Even Al has asked whether there’s a competition, and I said “No, no … not at all.” It’s not a competition. I don’t intend to finish the trip first, or even try to be ahead. But at the end of the day it would be unwise if Al stood between me and a free meal. If there’s one cold beer, it’s mine. If there’s a shower to be had, I plan to get to it first. And I‘m going to keep a close eye on the numbers on the pledge paddles.

I will quote more books than Al. Somewhat by accident both of us have cited books we’ve read, and our blogmeister has started listing them. Al spent some time this week at his local REI outlet, and I’m wondering whether a mention of the REI Catalogue, which I was viewing online yesterday, is worth a book citation credit. I may just post a competitive reading list, which would include the book I have just begun to read, Joshua Slocum’s “Sailing Alone Around the World” about his adventure in 1896. Slocum tells of shooting sharks off the stern of his 36-foot yacht and almost falling into the hands of a pirate felucca before it was dismasted in the hasty chase.

Al and I are not sailing alone. We’re going together, a hazard of a different sort. We could wake up one morning, each guy thinking, “he’s still here, I can’t shake him.” I told Albert about Eric Sevareid’s autobiography, “Not So Wild a Dream”. Immediately after graduating from high school at age 16, Sevareid and a friend took a 2,250 mile canoe trip from Minneapolis to Hudson Bay. Somewhere in the middle of it all they got sick of each other. Sevareid wrote about how one day he and his buddy ended up on a riverbank duking it out until they were snotty, bloody and exhausted. And then, without uttering a word, they got back into the canoe and paddled on.

I told Al that story and we both laughed, and then for just a beat, there was silence. If that moment ever comes to us, just before the first blows are landed, I will say to Albert, “It’s great that you’re out here.”

One week to go!

Greetings, Gentle Reader,

One week to go.

Seven days from today, Brian and I will be pulling our first blades of water for real. He’s by the pool, of course, and I’m in a dark corner of the gym on Cross Street, but in one week all of the preparatory philosophies and practices will go into the waste basket and every physical and mental lapse in preparation will be exposed and ruthlessly exploited by wind, current, and distance.

Sounds like fun? It will be!

I’ve just read Steinbeck’s classic Travels with Charley. As he anticipates his journey across America, he writes, “A journey is a person in itself; no two are alike. And all the plans, safeguards, policing, and coercion are fruitless. We find…that we do not take a trip; a trip takes us…Only when this is recognized can the blown-in-the-glass bum relax and go along with it. Only then do the frustrations fall away.”

Steinbeck reminds me, as I should already know from prior journeys, that the preoccupation with myriad details of planning and logistics will fall away the moment we settle into our sliding seats, grasp the perfect smooth cylinders of the oars, coil, and gently pull. At that moment we will be in the moment. Right now, all is future. In a week it will all make sense.

Gosh a’gory, Brian, it’s still hard to believe that I’m now using a plural pronoun. “We” seems so much more purposeful and indefatigable than “I”. “We” means we’re going to push off next Tuesday come what may. “I” might have meant that something could come up like, um, say, a doctor’s appointment or a busted pipe in the basement or finally getting the car in for a tune up. “We” means it all waits. “We” are leaving on the 21st. Will there be strength in numbers? Will we in fact be more capable, safer, and more resolute as a “we” than as an “I”? I am reminded of the quip on daughter Kate’s coffee cup, something to the effect that “No one of us is any dumber than all of us.” It makes sense on a cup…but will it also prove to be true on the mighty St Lawrence? Brian, I am so excited to have you along. I just hope I can keep up; you look so buff by the pool.

Gentle Reader, last time I promised to write a bit about my boat, the silent but more capable partner in this journey, and so I will shamelessly promote and illuminate. Note that in praising my vessel I also praise Brian’s, the difference being that mine is constructed of Kevlar with cherry trim while Brian’s is built from exquisite cedar, cherry, and other all-natural composites and is a story in itself…a thing of beauty that he is about to place in peril. In doing this, Brian has already proven his courage.

The link to Adirondack Guide Boat on this blog tells the tale better than I can. Suffice to say, the Adirondack Guide Boat is form following function. Double ended and round-bilged, the waterline increases as you load it, increasing both hull speed and stability if you keep the center of gravity low enough.. While from a distance it is often mistaken for a canoe, it is an entirely different vessel: once underway it tracks as if on rails, carries its own momentum with kindness, and is remarkably resistant to crosswinds. When on my sliding seat I can sustain a pace of 3.8 to 4.0 mph with relative ease in still water. I’ve seen as high as 11 mph on the GPS, surfing down huge rollers off New Jersey (scary!), and -5 (yes, minus five) just trying to stay upright while facing a stiff blow on the Delaware River (more scary!!), but the truth is that the Adirondack Guide Boat makes a trip like this possible because its many long suits compensate for my many shortcomings. There are faster boats and more stable boats and more high-tech boats, I suppose, but I don’t know of any boat that hits the sweet spot of compromise like the Adirondack Guide Boat. For a trip like this, which commands a compromise of speed, stability, and load-carrying ability, this is my boat. And, she is pretty.

One week to go. One week to go. One week, then row.

Finally, select Gentle Readers, thanks to you who have contributed to the fundraising initiative. The Pledge Paddles are beginning to move, and your generosity of spirit is most appreciated. Last Friday I said goodbye to my eighth graders as they graduated from Middle School, and truth be told, I’m suffering from a bit of separation anxiety from both them and my colleagues. Your donations to financial aid enable more than a few families to sustain the gift of a wonderful education to their sons, and that I get to participate in the experience and see the outcome of your generosity first-hand is yet another gift.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Mo’ Latah’!

Mr Frei

What’s with all this double pledge-paddle business?

Greetings, Gentle Reader,

“Yo! What’s with all this double pledge-paddle business?” you are no doubt asking. “I thought this was to be a blog recounting high adventure; imminent peril, heroic sacrifice, and happy endings! Instead, this is trending towards the Home Shopping Network!”

Fret not, Gentle Reader. The plot has thickened, but only a little. Here’s the Cliff Notes version, then back to More High Adventure. I promise.

You see, Brian and I both went to Loomis and share a great affection for our Old School. Since Brian will be rowing along in his boat, he has sensibly suggested that we expand the philanthropic reach of this adventure to any and all Pelicans who’d like to climb into our boats…hence, the two paddles. I can’t imagine that anyone will have to straddle a fence on this since the only “overlap” of loyalty between Boys’ Latin and Loomis is yours truly, and I’m pledging to both so as not to be caught in the middle. I have enough voices in my head as it is.

Does that clear it up? So, Pelicans: Welcome!! Lakers, keep piling it on!! This is not a competition, folks…it’s simply a senseless row for a sensible- even laudable- common cause, so climb aboard!

Otherwise, row preparations are underway. We’ll be on the water on June 21, a scant ten days from now. Brian continues to flog the (two) rowing machine(s) by his pool(s?) and will arrive ripped, buff, and ready to take on the roiling Rideau, Ottawa, St Lawrence, and Champlain waters. I, on the other hand, went shopping today for dry pack tuna fish and those little non-refrigerated portions of mayonnaise which you usually have to steal from diners. We each prepare in our own way.

I’ve just finished reading Roz Savage’s account of her 3,000 mile row across the Atlantic (yes, reading also counts as “preparation”, just as Robert Preston’s “Think Method” assisted the youth of River City). Savage gained almost twenty pounds before her departure, correctly anticipating that she would need this store of energy as she propelled herself across the big pond. I have claimed Roz’s strategy as my own, calling Brian and happily declaring, “I’m ready! I’ve got those 20 pounds on tap, and maybe then some.” That this store of energy will have to be converted to propulsive power through some modicum of muscle has not eluded me, and I think I’ll get to the gym this afternoon and look over the weight machines.

Many of you may wonder what “a typical day” will look like once underway, and I promise to get into the nits and nats of the expedition in the next blog. I also plan to heap praise on our boats and the folks as Adirondack Guide Boat. Over 2,000 miles of rowing on these kinds of expeditions have convinced me that there is no better craft imaginable for this kind of adventure…provided that the aging power plant is up to the task.

Mo’ latah’, Gentle Reader!